Sunday, 26 April 2009

Saved From Hell

My last African adventure, to Kenya, was a exceptional experience. I saw everything I wanted to, had excellent accommodation any my own private guide. The pinnacle of the trip was my hot air balloon ride over the Maasi Mara. We lifted off in time to see the sun rise over the savannah and eventually landed just before we crossed into Tanzania. We were then taken for a champagne bush breakfast, right up my street, I was half cut drinking champagne by 08.45 and had to start on the orange juice.

The trip started off at Lake Nakuru where the water looked pink from a distance. The pink was the flamingos. Although most people visit there to see the birds the animal wildlife is prolific too. I saw my first rhinos and colobus monkeys there. I also saw lions, buffalo, baboons, different antelopes and many more animals. When I went to bed that night I found a hot water bottle in my bed, clearly they didn't know I was Scottish and quite hardy, however it was appreciated, although I was less than 40 miles from the equator, I was high up and it was chilly at night.

I saw an archaeological site marked on the map close to Nakuru and asked the driver to make a detour there. It was an added bonus to visit this 5,000 year old site where evidence of a settlement, hill fort and burial site have been excavated. It was very similar to sites in the UK.

My next stop was Lake Naivasha where I had a boat trip, to see more wildlife and where "Out of Africa" was filmed. I had planned to got to Hell's Gate to see the amazing rocks and canyons, which made people think it was the gate to hell. However it began to rain quite heavily and I decided to give it a miss. I spoke to some people who went that afternoon and they were caught in flash floods and mud slides and had to scale the canyon walls to get out. Maybe spending too much time at the Naivasha Country Club drinking wine and eating was not such a bad idea.

The last part of the trip was to the Maasi Mara. My luxury cabin looked out over the plains of the Mara, I think I was up graded. When it has been dry the Maasi herdsmen are allowed to graze their cattle on the Mara. My first night there there were herds of cattle close to my cabin. The draw back was the hyenas howling in pursuit of the cattle and the Maasi herdsmen banging metal plate and yelling to chase the hyenas away. This happened several times overnight. The next night was a lot quieter but I don't think I would have heard anything after my balloon trip, champagne breakfast then my six hour safari followed by a massage, a shower then cocktails and dinner. Hot water bottles were also provided there.

The Maasi Mara was everything I hoped for. I saw where the wilderbeast cross the Maasi river to the Serengetti, the wilderbeast are already massing on the Mara. I saw cheetah, including one with her cub, a lion with his kill eating his fill before he would let the lionesses have a share, hyena, jackals, bat eared foxes, ostriches and many many more animals and birds. It was a fabulous trip. On the flight home, from 36,000 feet you could see Lake Natron in Tanzania with pink all round its shores from the flamingos.

On my return to Malawi there was more wildlife. My neighbour was having his garden cleared and 2 green mambas appeared and were killed outside my house. They are so deadly even the animal loving Rastas kill them. Shoes, the land crocodile, is also back.

I've just been on my last trip to the Lake for a VSO meeting. The Lake has risen so much, from the amount of rain, that it is threatening property. I could not swim because of the wind and the waves. I took the car to a garage on the way to the meeting because of a rattling back door only to be informed there was nothing wrong with the door but that I had "no shocks". They were wrong, I had a big shock when I was told how much it would cost to replace the shock absorbers. I had to leave the car for repair. The car was repaired but it also had added mileage and lack of fuel when I picked it up. At least the rattle has gone and the car is safe to drive.

I've now less than 3 weeks in Malawi. Although I'm really looking forward to coming home it will be a difficult time saying goodbye to so many people who have given friendship and support over the last 2 years. 2 new VSO are taking Harry. I know she will be well looked after but I will be very sad to give her away. I'm trying to give away all my belonging to the most appropriate people. It is very difficult because everyone wants everything. The chickens are laying so well now it would be pity to make a meal of them when others can benefit from the eggs after I have gone. I'm buying goats for local people who have helped me so they can have some sustainable form of income after I leave. I'm also continuing to support education for orphans after I leave.

Hopefully my 2 years here has done a little to help. For me it has been a fantastic professional personal experience. Although the role I thought I was coming here to do did not really exist I have been able to use my skills and knowledge to support the college and students and community in different ways. I never thought I would end up working in a mental hospital in Malawi and it is where I feel I have made the biggest impact. I have recently done some in service for the college tutors, I've worked on collating presentations, articles and guidelines to make an electronic package to support the teaching of the nursing curriculum. The diabetes project, which was funded by the Dunfermline and West Fife Diabetes UK group, has been a great success. My work with Children in the Wilderness was an added bonus that I had not envisaged. I've funded an internet project in the college and funded and secured resources for the college.

At times I've found it difficult to recognise my achievements here mainly because the pace of everything is so slow here. We are used to being very productive and working at a fast pace in the UK so when the pace slows we think we are doing nothing, in fact we are really fitting into the culture. I've seen people as lazy when they are just behaving in an acceptable manner in Malawi. So its nearly time to quicken the pace and get back to UK productivity and expectations.

I've had my exit interview, police check for my certificate of good conduct, reference and I'm waiting for my ticket home. I think the flight has been changed but in Malawi you are never quite sure until you have the ticket in your hand. I'll have a busy 2 weeks packing and partying, with most of my energy going into the latter. I hope everyone at home is well. I could not have survived my 2 years without all the support, letters, packages and phone calls from home. See you soon.

3 comments:

Naomi said...

You have done more than a little bit! I have so enjoyed your blog and you have painted such a colourful and amazing picture of the people and places you have met along the way.

It'll be lovely to see you when you return - you'll be much in demand!

Rhona said...

Hi Carol,
That was fantastic to read I was almost there with you, sounds amazing. Better than what ever I was supposed to be doing at work. You will be doing talks at all the Women's Guilds in fife when you get back. Have a safe trip back and hopefully your police clearance comes through, no issues! Don't want things stamped on your passport. Looking forward to seeing you will out a lunch in the diary for the first week in June. Take care, hope the chickens enjoy their new home. Love Rhona x

JEAN said...

Wow, that last trip must about top them all. What an amazing experience you have had - work and play. You have obviously done a lot of good where you have worked, and made lots of contacts for the future to continue helping. Things will no doubt be hectic when you get back, but will catch up when we can. Will miss reading about Malawi - it's been fascinating. Have a good journey home, Jeanxxx