Sunday, 10 May 2009

All Packed Up And Ready To Go

Three days to go until I fly home. Sometimes I think I have been here for years other times it feels like I have just arrived. The College gave me a lovely tea party and traditional gifts. I am going to friends for a farewell diner to night, more Malawian cocktails, and Harry keeps hiding in my case. Out of the 14 of us who arrived together, 3 went home early, 4 of us are leaving as planned and 7 are extending their placements. The last few weeks have been busy saying goodbye to people, giving away my belongings and packing up. One of my colleagues is moving into my house so she is happy to keep some of my belongings and inherit the chickens.

Luckily I will miss the elections, all the volunteers have been advised not to go out, even to work, around election time, I would see that as a holiday opportunity. There have been a lot of political meetings and a little unrest. There has also been a lot more crime, some of it very frightening. So its good to go before anything else happens.

Even the last few days here have continued to challenge me in some way or another. The bat with the 30 centimeter wingspan in my bedroom during the night was one challenge I could have done without. I also had my power cut this week for non payment of bills. I had thought that I had paid my bills but I was told I had false receipts. Some things are much simpler at home but there are lots of things I'll miss, the relaxed attitude, the students, some colleagues, fellow volunteers, the holidays, the African skies, the beautiful country, the lake and much much more. However, there is so much more to look forward to at home and I'm more than ready to return. First stop will be a shoe shop then M&S for wild Atlantic salmon and Madagascar prawns, home to the cats and a long awaited for bath, oh and perhaps a bottle of champagne!

Sunday, 26 April 2009

Saved From Hell

My last African adventure, to Kenya, was a exceptional experience. I saw everything I wanted to, had excellent accommodation any my own private guide. The pinnacle of the trip was my hot air balloon ride over the Maasi Mara. We lifted off in time to see the sun rise over the savannah and eventually landed just before we crossed into Tanzania. We were then taken for a champagne bush breakfast, right up my street, I was half cut drinking champagne by 08.45 and had to start on the orange juice.

The trip started off at Lake Nakuru where the water looked pink from a distance. The pink was the flamingos. Although most people visit there to see the birds the animal wildlife is prolific too. I saw my first rhinos and colobus monkeys there. I also saw lions, buffalo, baboons, different antelopes and many more animals. When I went to bed that night I found a hot water bottle in my bed, clearly they didn't know I was Scottish and quite hardy, however it was appreciated, although I was less than 40 miles from the equator, I was high up and it was chilly at night.

I saw an archaeological site marked on the map close to Nakuru and asked the driver to make a detour there. It was an added bonus to visit this 5,000 year old site where evidence of a settlement, hill fort and burial site have been excavated. It was very similar to sites in the UK.

My next stop was Lake Naivasha where I had a boat trip, to see more wildlife and where "Out of Africa" was filmed. I had planned to got to Hell's Gate to see the amazing rocks and canyons, which made people think it was the gate to hell. However it began to rain quite heavily and I decided to give it a miss. I spoke to some people who went that afternoon and they were caught in flash floods and mud slides and had to scale the canyon walls to get out. Maybe spending too much time at the Naivasha Country Club drinking wine and eating was not such a bad idea.

The last part of the trip was to the Maasi Mara. My luxury cabin looked out over the plains of the Mara, I think I was up graded. When it has been dry the Maasi herdsmen are allowed to graze their cattle on the Mara. My first night there there were herds of cattle close to my cabin. The draw back was the hyenas howling in pursuit of the cattle and the Maasi herdsmen banging metal plate and yelling to chase the hyenas away. This happened several times overnight. The next night was a lot quieter but I don't think I would have heard anything after my balloon trip, champagne breakfast then my six hour safari followed by a massage, a shower then cocktails and dinner. Hot water bottles were also provided there.

The Maasi Mara was everything I hoped for. I saw where the wilderbeast cross the Maasi river to the Serengetti, the wilderbeast are already massing on the Mara. I saw cheetah, including one with her cub, a lion with his kill eating his fill before he would let the lionesses have a share, hyena, jackals, bat eared foxes, ostriches and many many more animals and birds. It was a fabulous trip. On the flight home, from 36,000 feet you could see Lake Natron in Tanzania with pink all round its shores from the flamingos.

On my return to Malawi there was more wildlife. My neighbour was having his garden cleared and 2 green mambas appeared and were killed outside my house. They are so deadly even the animal loving Rastas kill them. Shoes, the land crocodile, is also back.

I've just been on my last trip to the Lake for a VSO meeting. The Lake has risen so much, from the amount of rain, that it is threatening property. I could not swim because of the wind and the waves. I took the car to a garage on the way to the meeting because of a rattling back door only to be informed there was nothing wrong with the door but that I had "no shocks". They were wrong, I had a big shock when I was told how much it would cost to replace the shock absorbers. I had to leave the car for repair. The car was repaired but it also had added mileage and lack of fuel when I picked it up. At least the rattle has gone and the car is safe to drive.

I've now less than 3 weeks in Malawi. Although I'm really looking forward to coming home it will be a difficult time saying goodbye to so many people who have given friendship and support over the last 2 years. 2 new VSO are taking Harry. I know she will be well looked after but I will be very sad to give her away. I'm trying to give away all my belonging to the most appropriate people. It is very difficult because everyone wants everything. The chickens are laying so well now it would be pity to make a meal of them when others can benefit from the eggs after I have gone. I'm buying goats for local people who have helped me so they can have some sustainable form of income after I leave. I'm also continuing to support education for orphans after I leave.

Hopefully my 2 years here has done a little to help. For me it has been a fantastic professional personal experience. Although the role I thought I was coming here to do did not really exist I have been able to use my skills and knowledge to support the college and students and community in different ways. I never thought I would end up working in a mental hospital in Malawi and it is where I feel I have made the biggest impact. I have recently done some in service for the college tutors, I've worked on collating presentations, articles and guidelines to make an electronic package to support the teaching of the nursing curriculum. The diabetes project, which was funded by the Dunfermline and West Fife Diabetes UK group, has been a great success. My work with Children in the Wilderness was an added bonus that I had not envisaged. I've funded an internet project in the college and funded and secured resources for the college.

At times I've found it difficult to recognise my achievements here mainly because the pace of everything is so slow here. We are used to being very productive and working at a fast pace in the UK so when the pace slows we think we are doing nothing, in fact we are really fitting into the culture. I've seen people as lazy when they are just behaving in an acceptable manner in Malawi. So its nearly time to quicken the pace and get back to UK productivity and expectations.

I've had my exit interview, police check for my certificate of good conduct, reference and I'm waiting for my ticket home. I think the flight has been changed but in Malawi you are never quite sure until you have the ticket in your hand. I'll have a busy 2 weeks packing and partying, with most of my energy going into the latter. I hope everyone at home is well. I could not have survived my 2 years without all the support, letters, packages and phone calls from home. See you soon.

Sunday, 5 April 2009

Running Out of Shoes

Its definitely time to come home. I'm down to my last pair of sandals, which have holes in them, a pair of flip flops and my wellies. All my clothes are dirty looking and have holes in them, because of the grit in the water, and I've nearly finished watching all my DVDs.

It looks like the college will be closing on Wednesday because we have not received any more government funding. Its an opportunity to have a last African Adventure before I come home. I'm off to Kenya for Easter week to visit Lake Nakuru, Hell's Gate Park (I hope they let me out) then on to the Maasai Mara and the Serengeti. If the weather is OK I hope to do a hot air balloon safari, its got to be the ultimate way to watch wildlife. I've had great difficulty getting dollars for my trip, none of the main banks have any. How can a country run out of dollars? Could someone be stashing them for their own use. As always my volunteer friends have helped out.

After my return from Kenya I'm meeting up with friends that came to Malawi with me. Some are extending their contracts, others are travelling or going home. It will be the last time we all meet up. At the end of that week we have a nurses meeting at the lake. I think there will be lots of swimming and sundowners. Then it will be tidying up and packing up for home. Its all coming to an end very quickly.

I'm getting lots of papaya from the garden and more eggs than I can cope with from the chickens. I had planned a few chicken curries before I left but I think I'll give the chickens away. I'm buying goats for the people who have helped in and around the house so that they have a sustainable form of income when I leave. I'll have to get someone else to buy them or I'll end up with barren females.

The diabetes project continues to meet obstacles but we have been awareness raising through drama which has been hysterical. We have been rained off, stuck in the mud, coincided with funerals and many other things that are beyond our control and an example of how difficult it can be to work in Africa.

I hope everyone is well at home. 6 weeks and counting down.

Sunday, 15 March 2009

9 Weeks and Counting Down

Where did all the time go? At times coming home was very much in the future now I have my flight booked and its coming round quickly. I am travelling home on 15th/16th May so I'm making the most of the next few weeks. I have started giving my things away so hopefully the final packing will be easy.

College re-opened as planned 2 weeks ago , we closed the following day for a public holiday! However, since then we have been up and running . If we do not get more funding from the government we will close again on 8th April. Its a worrying time for the future of the college and the staff, although the local staff appear to be less concerned than me. There has been a lot of attention on the May elections. The leader of the opposition has been charged with corruption, court proceedings are pending. So there has not been much attention paid to the plight of the nursing colleges or the nursing students. Information is not readily forthcoming so its a matter of wait and see.

The rains are continuing to fall. The storms seem less severe but the rains are prolonged and heavy. The roads turn into rivers and the gardens are like ponds but its amazing how quickly it dries up again. So many people have asked me for my wellies.

A lot of produce has been washed away from the garden but the papaya are nearly ripe and I should have some more tomatoes soon. I've had a regular supply of eggs, my cholesterol is probably sky high, and the first of my chicks born last year are now laying. I have new neighbours who have 2 small kids. They were initially afraid of their azungu neighbour but now they are used to the whitey next door.

My diabetes project kicks off next week after a lot of planning. We were waiting for the students to return to involve them in the project but with the uncertainty regarding how long they will be here we have had to use other staff. It has involved going out into the bush to remote health centres to negotiate the project with the village chiefs. The project has been warmly welcomed and its really exciting getting it off the ground. Erin, out Peace Corps volunteer, has been an important asset in the project.

We had a St Patrick's Day party last night and most Fridays we have a dinner in Malosa. The other exciting development was the opening of a coffee and cake shop in Zomba. They sell the best cake in Malawi and it is becoming a regular meeting place for us. Lots of volunteers are going home in the next few weeks so there will be lots of sad goodbyes. We come to depend on each other a lot here when we don't have our family and friends from home. So we have an excuse to eat lots of chocolate cake.

Harry is doing well and has reacquainted herself with one of her kittens that belongs to our new neighbours. As usual she stands back and lets any cat that visits eat her food.

I have a busy few weeks ahead as the countdown continues.

Friday, 20 February 2009

Still Idle

Six weeks on and still no funding for the students. Unfortunately every week we are told it will be next week so it is difficult to make travel plans. We only find out at the end of the week that we will not be required the next week. We have been informed that the college will open on 2nd March but we have had so many promises I really don't know what will happen. I'll just have to put it all down to training for retirement. I have never had so much time off work, I could get used to it.

I returned from the lake after the building I was in was hit by lightening. I thought I might be dreaming when I saw a fork of lightening, accompanied by the most amazing cracking noise, in my bedroom. The next morning I found out that lightening had blown a hole in the back wall, windows had smashed and all the electrics were blown. The noise of some of the storms this week has been frightening. I lie in bed listening to the crashing thunder, which makes the house shake, and the sound of the rain. Even when there is no thunder the rain is so loud it awakens you and stops you from sleeping. Some of it is exciting but sometimes its scary.

I had another visit to Lake Chilwa to see the flamingos, which were hiding, last week. It had been so wet we had to wade through the mud, sometimes up to our knees, for 20 minutes to get to the lake. I was unsure if the smell was animal shit or human shit but I was assured it was both. My feet are nearly raw with scrubbing them. As always the tranquility of the lake made the exercise worthwhile.

Although we have not had any students and we are unsure of future funding we have been interviewing for this year's intake of students which is always entertaining, so I'm not really idle all of the time. I have also been negotiating with VSO to get a finishing date. It looks like I have another 12 weeks here so countdown is about to begin.

The Internet project that I have been involved in and funded has grown from strength to strength. Last year it became clear that to get the most effective Internet access we would have to work with other organisations and find a wealthy funder. We have now achieved both and hope to have a satellite system within the next few months. We will share it with the hospital, the secondary school, the ecumenical college and the diocese offices. Not bad from small beginnings and a project leader that it pretty retarded when it comes to computers and the Internet(that's me).

The garden is looking great just now with all the rain and sun. Unfortunately some of my smaller plants have been washed away. The mango season is over but the papayas are nearly ripe. I have plenty of eggs despite the chickens having another dose of the pox. Harry is happy and spends most nights hunting and sleeps during the day.

So another 84 sleeps until my release, counting down and looking forward to coming home.

Sunday, 1 February 2009

Bad Case of Bed Bugs

Three weeks on and still no work and no sign of the college opening. I wish I had known how long it would be when I returned from home or before I returned then I would have delayed coming back. We only know from week to week therefore its difficult to travel very far. So unless they can be more specific about when the college is likely to reopen we have to stay in Malawi. That's not such a bad deal with the Lake, so here I am chilling out at the lakeside wishing I was working, well not really wishing I was working. Unfortunately I was bitten by bed bugs at my first stop. I think I managed to leave them there but I have tracks of bites on places that only get exposed in bed. It could have been worse.

My case eventually turned up 4 days late. The haggis were intact. The party line from the butcher was not to eat them but 3 brave souls, including myself, took part in a clinical trial to see how sick we could become with unrefrigerated haggis. Not one symptom between us so the Burn's supper went ahead, haggis, stovies, cranachan, tablet, cheese and oatcakes. We had a brilliant night. There were Scots, English, Irish, Americans, Canadians and Dutch at the party. Everyone took part in reading Burns and in Scottish country dancing in the garden. I think it was the best party we have had here. Roll on St Patrick's day.

The battery in the car finally gave up life in a busy market town where I had stopped to buy vegetables. I had difficulty making my self understood but some enterprising kid went to get help, probably his big brother. A few minutes later a clapped out car came speeding up and 3 guys got out like Miami Vice wielding a shiny spanner, that they had probably stolen for the exercise. Before I knew it three pairs of hands were about to remove parts of the engine, a tropical storm began to drench us and local vendors were taking the opportunity to shove garlic, onions and every other conceivable vegetable in my face hoping that I would buy them. At least I could see the funny side and had been in Malawi long enough to know what was happening. I shut the bonnet, not caring about the hands in the engine which were removed before there was any damage done to the engine or fingers. A couple of phone calls and half an hour later a friend arrived and jump started the car. We bought a new battery the next day.

The rainy season continues. Watching the storms across the lake at night is like watching a laser light show. There can be several storms in different places at one time. When the storms get closer the whole lake appears to light up, and the wind whips up the water, its quite spectacular. However they don't do much for a good night's sleep they awaken you and keep you awake. Good job I don't need to get up for work.

I plan to stay at the lake for this coming week and return to Malosa at the weekend. Hopefully the college will open. We should be really busy with exams and marking. If there is no funding I think we will still be busy because the week commencing the 17th we are interviewing for the next intake. We have to set the entrance exam and the interview questions. I've never been off work for so long. I suppose I could look at it as training for retirement. I could get used to it.

I hope everyone is well. Keep in touch.

Wednesday, 14 January 2009

Where Did All The Time Go?

I can hardly believe that I was at home for 3 weeks. It was over in a flash. It was great to spend time with my family and friends, apologies to those I did not manage to see. I really enjoyed the freezing cold with the beautiful winter sun and frost. Powmill was lovely. Its quite surreal being back in Malawi. I was sweating from the second I got off the plane. Its really humid here and we have had some fantastic storms since I returned. Unfortunately I still don't have my biggest piece of luggage with everything that I needed to bring back, including my antimalarials. There are 5 haggis and cheese for our Burns Supper in the case, I think the haggis will be alive and running, hopefully not all over my clothes. Never mind, we can make stovies. South African Airways are not in the least helpful in locating and delivering my luggage.

My long flight was delayed. Before take off they decided to de-ice the plane because it had been on stand all day. Too bad they didn't decide to do it earlier in preparation for the flight. Then the gangway door was stuck to the plane and eventually there was a team of engineers trying to release it. There was a camera on the tail of the plane, we could see everything going on including the 6 car loads of people trying to release the plane from the door, or the door from the plane. I think it was eventually brute force that won the day. The entertainment did not finish there the finale was me fall unconscious, not with alcohol but I really should not have taken temazepam to help me sleep. Its not the first time that I have created havoc on a plane and probably won't be the last. They might have put me in 1st class to recover but all I got was a glass of water on the jump seat. I didn't come clean about the cause of my fainting but said I had a touch of malaria.

I had a great welcome back to Malawi, I was met at the airport by Sussanah, my car share, Erin, Peace Corps, and our new medical student. We had a cheese and wine that evening, minus the cheese in my case, and the next night Kwok, our established medical student cooked a fabulous Chinese meal for us. Harry was pleased to see me and the chickens are doing well, its eggs for tea tonight. The maize crop was about 2-3 feet high when I left its now over 6 feet some of it is about 8 feet. Everything is very green apart from the tap water which is brown.

You always have to be prepared for the unexpected in Malawi, public holidays are announced the night before and people turn up for work only to find there is none. I've returned from the UK to find that the government has withdrawn funding for nurse training and the college is closed. It is probably just a cost cutting exercise and funding will return soon allowing the college to re-open but we don't know when. If its an extended period of time it leaves me in difficult position. No job here, no job at home until June. I might just have to travel, it would be good to see Namibia, Botswana and Madagascar. Hopefully it will be resolved by next week.

Keep in touch, I'm on my last lap and its all the support and contact from home that has kept me going.