Friday, 19 December 2008

Awesome

What a week! Cape Town has it all, theatres, restaurants, bars, mountains, beaches, museums something for everyone. I've had a very busy week from the time I left Malawi. What I had not realised was when I changed my ticket to come to south Africa 10 kgs was taken off my baggage allowance. I managed to get away with it in Malawi but I don't know what will happen here.

Although I could have done with more time in Cape Town I'm really pleased that I visited Johannesburg. I did a city tour, a visit to Soweto and the Hector Pieterson museum. It was a really interesting trip, Soweto was not what I imagined, Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu and Winnie Mandela all have houses there. You see kids out playing in the street unlike the rich white areas where people live behind high walls with electrified fences round the top. However, the illegal townships are worse than I imagined.

The bus trip was comfortable but I slept very little. From 5 in the morning I enjoyed the journey through the Karoo and the wine lands then on into Cape Town. It was a good option and a way of seeing some of the country.

Cape town is fabulous. It may be expensive to fly to from the UK but its inexpensive once you get here. I'm staying in a newly refurbished 4 star hotel in the city centre with an excellent restaurant for 5 night for just over the cost of a room in a Travel Lodge in central London for 1 night. Taxis, meals and the theatre are about 25% of the price at home. The wine, of course, is excellent. I have turned the air conditioning in my room as low as possible to acclimatise before I come home. The weather here is great much cooler than Malawi in the high 20s and low 30s. There is also a cooling breeze from the sea.

I did a bus tour the first day and went up Table Mountain. Its magnificent and the views are spectacular. I walked round the top which consists of a sandstone pavement similar to the limestone pavement in the Lake District. The sandstone has been eroded and sculpted by the environment giving it its own micro climate and flora. I went to "The Ultimate Talent Show" the first night which was show of young African talent. All the performers were disadvantaged and from deprived areas. Most of them had never been in a theatre before let alone performed. It was full of raw energy and talent, a most superb evening's entertainment.

On Wednesday I had a helicopter trip round Cape Town, over the mountain and over the peninsula to the Indian Ocean. It was a bit bumpy due to the wind buffeting it. I was the only passenger, Cape Town is suffering from the economic slow down and lack of tourists. My trip to Robben Island was cancelled because of the high winds so I had a chance to visit the V & A Waterfront. That evening I went to see the Cape Town Ballet perform Christmas Classics, another excellent evening.

Thursday was a busy day with visits to the Cape of Good Hope Castle, which is really a fort, the District Six museum, which tells the stories of forced evictions, the Holocaust Centre and the afternoon tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel, their
Gleneagles. No lunch or dinner so I could make the most of afternoon tea. I went to the ballet again to see the Nutcracker, another great evening.

Today I've had a trip round the peninsula. First stop was to see the penguins at Boulder Beach it was fabulous to see these amusing birds in their natural environment. I then went on to the Cape Point Nature Reserve. I saw eland, tortoises, ostriches, seals and other antelopes. I had lunch at Cape Point and climbed up to the lighthouse then had a visit to the botanical gardens before returning to Cape town.

I feel I've only scratched the surface of Cape town and would love to come back sometime. I think there may be some reasonably priced trips from the UK after the 2010 football. I've still to visit the wine lands, have sundowners on the beach, visit the National Gallery and go to Robben Island, to mention but a few.

Its packing and early night tonight. Home Sunday, see you soon.

Friday, 12 December 2008

All Packed Up And Ready To Go

South Africa here I come, then home in a week. It can't come soon enough. I've been looking forward to my trip home for such a long time. My luggage is overweight mainly due to all the rough stones that I collect here, unfortunately there are no precious stones in my collection. Arrangements have been made for my chickens and cat. I'm desperate for the cold wind, ice and rain. The rainy season has started here, about a month late, so its a bit cooler when the rain falls and for a while after that. However its still too hot for me and the humidity is a killer. I've woken up a few times with my bedroom floor flooded, especially under the bed. It took a while to find where the water was coming from because the rain had stopped by the time I found the flood. It was coming in the window. None of the window frames fit properly so there are gaps where the water gets in. Its not everyone that has a water bed in Africa. When there is heavy rain fall it can flood the holes that snakes live in. We had a huge green mamba in the garden which my neighbour was chasing and trying to kill. I kept out of the way.

I spent another week doing the Children in the Wilderness holiday. There were no pythons in the rooms this year only scorpions, huge ones. There was also an assortment of the biggest, hairiest spiders that I have ever seen. Getting there was an interesting trip. I got a mini bus to the nearest town then a bike taxi for the last 15 kilometers, its a good job these African lads are strong. When we got to the river the guy had to carry the bike over and I had to wade through this fast flowing, muddy water up to my knees wondering what was lurking in it. The kids had a ball on camp. Some visitors flew into the safari park in a private plane, a small Cessna, so we did a trip to the airstrip to let the kids see a plane. I remembered when I was a kid how excited I got when I saw a plane. In the west we forget that more than half of the worlds population has never seen a plane. The kids loved it. However I'm glad I wasn't the next passenger after the kids had played with the wing flaps and propellers and put their dirty fingers all over the windows. The animals were as entertaining as before. Watching the monkey's play outside the chalets was a real treat, the baboons were not so attractive. Its quite strange going to sleep listening to the various animals outside your chalet and not being worried about the elephants and hyenas in close proximity. The chalets only have a 2 foot stone wall, the rest is constructed from plastic mosquito netting so there is not much to keep the animals out.

I know my husbandry skills, or lack of them, have let me down here but my confusion has increased. I've had another chick hatch but I've not had a cockerel for about 3 months. Maybe my chickens are having visitors I don't know about. We cooked one of the chicken last night and had a Christmas meal before we all go off on holiday. I had all the Christmas decorations that people sent me up, coloured lights and a decorated baobab tree. We never got as far as the pudding so I'm taking it to work later today.

We have recently had a few deaths from cholera in Malawi and the fear is that we will have an epidemic like Zimbabwe. VSO phoned to tell us not to shake hands with anyone and remind us to boil all our water. It may have been more helpful had they ordered the vaccine a few weeks ago, there is none in the country at present. I continue to be greedy with malaria and have just finished treatment for my 6th episode, the last 3 within 4 months. I'm a bit fed up with it but just think how bad it is for local people who don't have the rapid access to diagnosis and treatment that I have. At least local people have some immunity by the time they are adults but so many people die from it especially children. Someone died behind my house this morning. He was working in his garden when he was attacked by bees, they covered him completely and nobody could do anything. I spoke to his brother who told me that dying this way was a miracle. He did not appear to be upset. Maybe it is some cultural belief that this is some sort of special death. I only hope he is dead and not in shock because they bury them pretty quick here, within 4 hours of death if they are a Muslim, no one needs to be certified dead or have a post mortem. No one morns if someone is killed by lightening, which happens surprisingly frequently here, because it is believed that God had taken the spirit but it will be sent back. I would prefer happier miracles but his brother was happy enough!

I'm really looking forward to seeing everyone over the next few weeks. No one is allowed to give me any stress or I may have a relapse of malaria, so if I play golf I have to win. I have to get new clubs when I'm home because someone stole my clubs from the garden hut. Little did the theives know not only were the women's clubs but they had been cut down for me. So if someone tries to sell clubs for a shorty you'll know where they came from.

If I don't see you before have a great Christmas and New Year. I can almost taste that south African wine already.

Monday, 17 November 2008

Too Hot To Handle

We are anxiously waiting for the rains. We've had a few showers but not the real rains. Local people have planted their maize and unless the rains come soon their seeds will rot. Erin, our peace corps volunteer, records the temperature in her house, she recorded 370 C (98F) before bed in her bedroom and 480C in the afternoon. We are all exhausted with the heat. Hopefully the rains will come soon.

I've finished at the mental hospital. One of the last activities I did with the students was to show them "One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest". When I tried to get them to identify some of the issues they thought the biggest problem was that the staff had made the mistake of not orientating the patient to the ward! Here was me thinking I had helped them to understand mental illness. Clearly I over estimated my ability.

The mental hospital has the same problems this year as last year. The patients all have hair and body lice, the clothing and bedding are full of lice, the meat disappears between the kitchen and the wards, patients are over sedated as a control measure and ECT is still done without anaesthesia. However, its still my favorite place where I have made the most impact, even if the patients think the most important thing is to orientate the patients to the ward.

I'm now back in college and planning a diabetes project. Diabetes UK West Fife have raised £500 to improve the lives of people with diabetes in Malawi. I met with all the local village chiefs to discuss diabetes awareness raising in the community and got resounding approval for the project. It is a very special piece of work being funded by patients at home.

The eggs that I doubted would hatch did hatch and I got 9 new chicks. 2 new chicks were pecked to death by their mother for misbehaving. 2 of my bigger chicks died from the pox (chicken pox I presume not the clap). 1 chick has disappeared. probably stolen. It had been so dry that the veg in the garden has not been doing to well. I've had bananas from the tree and the mangoes are ripening nicely, my sweetcorn is ripening and should be ready soon and I have fresh eggs every day.

Harry the cat is doing well and catching most of the big spiders but she missed the scorpion that I found in the kitchen. Erin has tarantulas in her house but I've not seen any here. The mail has been very slow. It took 4.5 months for an airmail parcel sent in June to reach here. I've had very few letters and my weekly newspaper is more often missing than not. I had malaria again a couple of weeks ago, the treatment is as bad as the symptoms. We had a VSO meeting at the lake at the end of last week. I stayed on for the weekend and spent hours in the water. I went snorkeling round Lizard Island the swam back to the shore. We went swimming in the morning around 6 and at 5 in the afternoon till dusk. We have to get out of the water at dusk incase hippos and crocks visit the waters edge.

The college have decided to close a week early to allow the students to get into the Christmas spirit, I think we should adopt some of their customs at home. I've booked myself a trip to Cape Town the week before I come home. I'm spending 1 night in Johannesburg and hope to visit Soweto then I'm going to travel to Cape Town by bus so that I can see some of the country. I've booked a trip to Cape Point, a visit to the penguins on Boulder Beach, a helicopter flight over Cape town, a boat trip to Robben Island and a seat at the "Ultimate Talent Show". I plan to go up Table Mountain, visit 2 museums and hit the shops. Not much chill out time but I've a long flight home to relax on.

Next week I'm doing the Children in the Wilderness camp again. I'll just have to suffer another week of safari and enjoy watching the crocks, hippos and elephants from my chalet. Hopefully we won't have ant pythons in the bedrooms like we did last year. So life in Malawi continues to fly past. I'm still making the most of it but really looking forward to being home for Christmas and then home for good in 6 months. I hope everyone at home is doing well. I'm looking forward to catching up over Christmas. Keep in touch.

Tuesday, 23 September 2008

Hysterectomy on the coffee table

Not me the cat. Poor Harry went under the knife when the VSO vet visited. Gordon works with the dairy farmers in Malawi and was working close to Malosa. We struck a deal, Harry's hysterectomy for dinner, bed and breakfast, can't be bad. Without consent Harry was anaesthetised, tied to the coffee table and had her uterus, tubes and ovaries removed and put in the domestic waste. The coffee table was placed on the dining table and thankfully it was too high for me to assist in the operation. Debbie acted as scrub nurse and I shone the light on the proceedings. Harry was quite dopey after it but back to her normal self within 24 hours. I also stole her babies and distributed them to cat lovers. I was really gutted when the last one had to go, I kept it for an extra week but knew I had to do the last dirty deed and give it away.

The poultry farming is going well. I now have 10 chicks from the first 2 clutches of eggs and one of the hens is sitting on another clutch. In a couple of months there will be a lot of chicken on the menu. I'm assured, by the boy who helps with the chickens, that this clutch will hatch but I'm not so sure. I gave away the cockerel because he was standing on the chicks and killing them. I'm told because he was there they eggs will hatch. I'm not sure of the biology of this but time will tell. My knowledge of animal reproductive health has failed me on several occasions here and may continue to do so. I still think its dodgy having fertilised eggs when there is no cockerel!

I've just has another great holiday with Jane and Mary Jess. We stayed in Malawi and it was a great opportunity for me to visit some of the places that I had hoped to see. We spent some time at the Lake where we chilled out, swam and snorkeled. We went on to Luwawa Forrest and visited the rose quartz mine, walked in the Forrest and relaxed. After that we came to Malosa for a few days. We visited Lake Chilwa and were taken out on the lake by someone from the wildlife and environmental society of Malawi. I did not describe the trip properly to Jane and Mary Jess. They thought that we were going to a marina and getting on a motorised boat. I missed telling them the bit about bad roads, dangerous bridges, walking through the fields and eventually wading out to a wooden boat. We were punted through the reeds to the lake, the boat was leaking and the bailing equipment was poor. I don't mind my feet getting wet but its when bits of dead fish and fish scales are sticking to my ankles I object. I could have kept on the wellies that the fisherman lent me but I was more concerned about the number of foot infections I could contract than of the bits of dead fish. However it all added to the ambience and the Malawi experience. We spent a night at Zomba Forrest Lodge where the famous chef who cooked for the Queen Mother works. Its reputedly the best food in Malawi and I wouldn't argue with that. We went on to Satemwa tea estate where we stayed in the old colonial house. Some of the rooms were bigger than my house. Again we were well catered for. We were invited to the owners house for drinks and I had to get someone to drive the car back, after 1 gin I knew I couldn't drive. I had another gin and then speaking was almost beyond my capability. We spent a morning in Blantyre and then went on to Liwonde national park and stayed in Mvvu Lodge where we were totally spoilt. We saw a great variety of birds and animals. We had hippos and crocodiles in the river below our patios. The first night we were kept awake by elephants putting down branches and eating the bushes round our chalets and the second night one walked within 3 meters of us having an alfresco dinner. The holiday passed very quickly, as they always do, but we did a lot and really enjoyed it.

I had malaria again before the holiday. I was really washed out after it. I'm not looking forward to the wet season when the likelihood of malaria is greatly increased. I've decided to come home for a holiday at Christmas and I look forward to catching up with a lot of people. I am really wishing for snow, wind and sub zero temperatures, real Christmas trees and open fires. When I return I'll only have a few months of my placement left.

Thanks for all the comments, letters and cards. I hope everyone at home is OK. Keep in touch.

Saturday, 9 August 2008

Another Fab Holiday

I'm still recovering from nearly 3 weeks with my nephews, Joe, Allan and Kevin. We had a superb holiday and I think we were all knackered at the end of it. If saying goodbye to friends is bad its worse saying goodbye to family, that is the downside of having visitors. However my next visitors arrive in 4 weeks and I'm really looking forward to seeing them. I'm planning that trip at present and hope to spend all the time in Malawi.

When the boys arrived we went to the Lake to one of the more lively places, although it was only us and a VSO friend and her Dad and his friend that were there. Meeting the others was unplanned but great fun. We went snorkeling, watched the fish eagles and the boys jumped off the boulders at Otter Point into the water. It was Kate's birthday so we had cocktails, I had to tell the barman how to make them, and birthday cake. The place we stayed was Cape McClear which was where Livingstone set up his first mission in Malawi. They had to move from there because of the malaria.

We went to my home after the Lake where we had a BBQ with other friends and the boys sampled the delights of a Malawian night club "G String". I acted as chauffeur that night. We returned to Lilongwe, our departure point for a trip to Zambia. David, a fellow VSO, and his sister came on the trip. Although I did almost the same trip 6 weeks before it was a totally different experience. We were camping or staying in basic chalets this time and the food was not as good but it was 35% of the cost of the other trip so no complaints. The road journey is long and hard but worth it. We saw most of the animals that we wanted to see and had an action packed time a Victoria Falls. 2 of the boys did a free fall jump from 6,000 feet, 2 of us did a microlite flight and we all nearly died rafting down the Zambezi. Of course we were not rafting at the point we nearly drowned we had been thrown from our raft and were being pulled down into the whirlpools, even being caught under the raft was preferable to the whirlpools. We had booked a helicopter to take us back which flew inside the gorge and zig zagged above the river. That night we went on a boat safari that was a bit more sedate.

On our return to Malawi we spent another night in Lilongwe then returned to Malosa before the boys had to leave. It was all over too quickly. I've been back at work for a week, I thought that the students were going to the mental hospital last week but it has been delayed for a week, so I'll be working there for the next 3 months.

The flights to CapeTown from the UK over the festive period are crazy. I think Jean and I can make other holiday plans when I get back at less than half the price. That will also have the advantage of including my other school mates. So I'm re thinking Christmas and the New Year, the sales are very tempting, I dream of a real shopathon.

The kittens are over 6 weeks now and absolutely gorgeous. They are making for the door every time it opens. They can now climb up onto the chairs and may be able to get out of the window. I have become part of the apparatus in the playground that my living room has become. They scatter any paper that they find, that includes clearing shelves, the paper is great for playing with, they play fight all the time then all crash out simultaneously.

My poultry farming is not so good, how could it be when I initially bought cockerels as opposed to layer? Some of the eggs have hatched but the cockerel has been damaging the eggs by standing on them and killing the chicks by standing on them. I don't think he means to he is just trying to shag the chickens. I have tried to separate them. I had 4 live chick yesterday but only 1 this morning hopefully there will be more.

I received 3 boxes from home, 1 had taken 10 months and 2 had taken 9 months. There is still one missing from last July. There were seeds in one of the boxes so there is a lot more planting going on. I am very happy to share my harvests with people but recently most of the veg has been taken before I get a chance to sample it, hopefully that will change.

I'm still working on the Internet project in the college. It would help if I was not so retarded in that area but it would appear that I am best informed in the college. I keep trying and the college keep hoping. All the letters and cards from home keep me going. I really appreciate all the contact. I hope everyone is well, keep in touch.

Monday, 14 July 2008

Hakuna Matata

As you can see my language skills greatly improved by seeing the the Lion King. This was about the only phrase I knew in Kiswahili when I arrived in Tanzania and the only other word I picked up was "Jambo" which is nothing to do with Hearts football team but means welcome. We has 3 nights in Dar Es Salam which is a great big dirty, busy port and city, much as I expected. We had 5 nights in Zanzibar which was amazing. We spent sometime in Stonetown and the rest of the time on Kandwa beach. It was a bit like Mozambique Island but on a much larger scale. It has a similar history with the slave trade. We went on the spice trail which was really interesting. We visited the slave caves where they hid the slaves once slaving became illegal. We went snorkeling on a coral reef and lazed about on the beach. We shopped till we dropped then we revived ourselved by drinking cocktails. Our plans to travel back overland did not work out so we spent an extra day there and flew back. I'd love to go back to Zanzibar sometime but I don't think I will be able to fit it in before I finish in Malawi.

Harry gave birth to 4 beautiful kittens. She is a great mum. They are nearly 3 weeks old, their eyes are open and they are just about standing. I will never forget, as a health visitor, being invited to sit down in a house but being warned about the sofa because "the dug gave birth on it", I was really disgusted by it. So where did Harry give birth? On the sofa, but not before I put plastic and old news papers on it. I didn't have the heart to move her once her contractions started. I watched her labour from begining to end. Watching her eat the placenta and after birth was a bit nauseating but it saved me cleaning it up. I've been so taken with the whole thing I think I'll let her have another litter.

I eventually got 2 laying hens, Thelma and Louise, as of this morning, they had 17 eggs between them. My remaining cockerel has been doing his stuff and, within the next month, I hope to have some lovely little chickens for the kittens to play with. The good life continues, the garden continues to produce lots of veg and herbs. The weather has been much cooler and we have had some wind and rain recently. I love it. The sun and heat is fine at the beach and lake but its very tiring working in it.

Mumbo Island was everything it promissed to be. A tropical island paradise 10 km off the lakeshore. We had sundowners on sunset boat trips, coffee brought to our tent in the morning before breakfast and excellent food. The only mammals there are otters and we saw plenty of them. The tents were luxury walk in affairs, fully furnished with balconies on stilts over the lake complete with hammocks. We spent our time kayaking, snorkeling and swimming. It would all have been very healthy if we had not enjoyed the food and booze so much.

I'm really excited about the next couple of weeks. The boys are arriving on Wednesday. I'm driving up to Lilongwe tomorrow to meet them off their flight. We are then going to the lake for 2 days then to Malosa for 2 days before we set off on our trip to Zambia. We are going to South Luangwa and Victoria Falls. I'm looking forward to going again and seeing the animals and the Falls 2 months on. The water level will have dropped and the Falls will look different and hopefully this time I will be able to raft on the Zambezi. Last time the water level was too high. The vegitation will be different in South Laungwa and it will be easier to see some of the wild life. Working in a college has its advantages with long holidays.

When I return to work I will be teaching the students in the mental hospital again. So I have plently to look forward to. Despite all the fun and new experiences I'm having I still miss everyone at home. I really appreciate all the contact from family and friends. I hope everyone is well. Keep in touch.

Friday, 20 June 2008

Over the Half Way Mark

I can't believe I've been here over a year. I'll soon be on count down to home but I've lots to pack in before that.

I've been living quite quietly for the last few weeks. 2 friends from the north came to visit for a few days and we had a few meals with other VSOs and I had another trip to Lilongwe. The most exciting thing was getting caught speeding. The police were using a camcorder, the same as mine, and some other machine that allocated random numbers to passing cars. I was pulled over and told that I was doing some excessive miles per hour. I probably was speeding but not doing the mileage they claimed so I felt that complete denial was the best policy. Unfortunately it didn't work and they told me I was being charged then they told me I had been charged. I missed the getting charged bit and I was told that I had to go to court the next day. After asking a few people what I should do I decided to ignore the whole thing. Apparently I missed out the bit I should have done, that is bribe the police officer. They have not come looking for me yet and hopefully they won't.

I'm still busy in the college. It closes in 2 weeks for the holidays. I'll be off for a month then I'll be doing 3 months in the mental hospital, my favorite place. It is almost mid winter here with temperatures in the low 20s during the day but cooler in the evenings and cold overnight. I need to use blankets on my bed and sometimes have to wear a light fleece in the morning. Its a bit like a good summer at home. The garden continues to produce lots of fruit and veg. Most of it goes to local people. I'm trying to find a mate for my remaining cockerel which is harder than it sounds. Harry looks like a pack horse with her extended abdomen. Her head looks too small for her body. I think she will deliver soon, its over 8 weeks since I caught her at it in the garden with Debbie's cat so anytime now.

We are going to try to book our trip to Zanzibar tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to all the seafood, the spice trail, seeing round Stonetown and swimming in the ocean. Its only 2 weeks until we go and before that I have my trip to Mumbo Island where I want to do a lot of snorkelling, swimming and chilling out. After that its the boy's trip and back to Zambia. I'll need another holiday after that!

Everyone at home will be getting ready for their holidays, I hope everyone has a great time. Its great hearing from people at home all the comment, letters and cards are really appreciated and help to keep me sane, well almost. Keep well and keep the comments coming.

Tuesday, 27 May 2008

What A Holiday!

I've just had one of the best holidays ever. After meeting Alli and Kathy at the airport we went to the lake where we drank champagne, swam before breakfast, snorkeled off an island, watched sea eagles diving for fish and caught up on lost time. From there we headed back to Lilongwe then left the next day for Zambia. Our lodge in the Safari park was luxurious. We were spoilt from beginning to end. Our chalets looked over a lagoon which was drying after the rains. There were zebra, impala and hippos wandering about on the dry areas. We had visiting frogs and bats in the chalets which we had to remove before bed, except the one Kim found in her bed at 2 am! We saw lionesses and their cubs eating a buffalo kill, a leopard, a male lion, giraffes, zebra, hyena, buffalo, and many many more species of animals, reptiles and birds. One morning we had a bush breakfast, a slap up breakfast served in a beautifully setup dinning room in the middle of the bush. Our guide, Richard, was superb and very knowledgeable. He could find animals from hearing a distant roar. Each game drive was different from the last and provided yet another insight into the bush, wildlife and way of life in the remote areas we visited. The spotter on the night drives had also been trained in pouring gin and tonic, or was that tonic and gin? The result was we saw twice as many animals as were there. Another highlight was sitting in a Jacuzzi then having a massage in a spa built out over a hippo pool with open views. The food was excellent and we were joined every morning at breakfast by the monkeys trying to pinch the food.

From South Luangwa we went to Victoria Falls, what a sight. The road journey was long and uncomfortable but it was worth it. We climbed down to the boiling pot where the falls drop to, and explored the other walks and paths around the top of the falls. We did a boat safari on the upper Zambezi and an elephant safari one morning. Kathy was mugged by a baboon who stole our nuts that we had left over from lunch. The elephant safari was a very special experience. All the accommodation and food was great and I'm looking forward to doing it again with the boys in July.

The trip back to Malawi proved to be every bit as eventful. The brakes failed in the car and we were involved in an accident. Thankfully no one was hurt. The upside was that we were flown back to the border and escaped an 8 hour drive. We had great fun back in Malawi and managed to pack in a huge amount. Alli had done some fundraising and we visited the projects that are going to benefit from the money. The visits gave a great deal of insight into the difficulties that people face here as well as the great determination and commitment of local people. One of the highlights of our time here was a boat trip on Lake Chilwa to see the bird life. We also walked up Zomba Plateau, visited the market and had friends round for dinner. All too soon it came to an end and we returned to Lilongwe via Salima on one of the most beautiful roads in the country.

My saddest day here was seeing Alli and Kathy off at the airport. However, I'll soon have more visitors and there is plenty going on to keep me occupied. Its out for drinks tomorrow for David's (fellow VSO) 30th Birthday , a big party on Saturday, other VSOs visiting for 3 days next week then back to Lilongwe to pick up Susannah, my care share mate. So life goes on at a fast pace. Harry definitely looks pregnant and keeps climbing in and out of boxes perhaps looking for a place to give birth. We ate two of the chickens when the girls were here. The garden continues to produce but I think most of it goes to the locals. I hope everyone at home is well keep the comments coming.

Friday, 25 April 2008

Return from the north

I had a great professional visit to Mzuzu, albeit with ice cream stops. It was enlightening to see how things can be done in Malawi. We are definitely the poor relations in the south of the country. The facilities in the mental hospital are better than in some units in the UK. It is funded and run by St John of Gods in Dublin. They fund everything from drugs to masters degrees for their staff. No sign of lice and it even smelled OK. The central hospital was also amazing. It was built and run by the Taiwanese but they have recently been asked to leave Malawi since the Malawians have become chummy with the Chinese. They took some of the equipment and their bonus scheme with them and I believe it is going down hill already. The university was interesting although I believe their degrees are at a much lower level than degrees in the west.

I visited Livingstonia which sits at the top of a spectacular road with fantastic views. The downside was having to camp at a very rustic campsite. There was an eletrical storm, not the best time to discover that your tent leaks, I was woken up by a warthog grunting and sniffing round my tent, the composting loo was not composting and the bushes were preferable to the flies escaping from the loo. Like most things here I put it down to experience. The following day we went to the beach, this was my first introduction to sand snakes, 3 foot long and almost pretty. The snake that came from the engine of the car and slithered over the windscreen before attempting to come in the driver's wiondow was not pretty. It was an immature black mamba, about 6 feet long and very dangerous. Not a scream emerged from my lips, a few sweary words and jings, crivens and help ma bob were the only sounds uttered. Thank God for therapy. I think it must have got into the engine at the campsite and eventually tried to escape. I'm glad it didn't try to escape via the foot pedels.

I also visited a rose quartz mine and bought some lovely quartz. I think it may be too heavy to get home. My final weekend was spent at Kandy Beach where we had a VSO meeting. It was a really beautiful setting on the lake and had an excellent resturant. It was another snake experience. I think I'm attracting the wildlife. I've seen two rats in this internet shop this afternoon, there were baboons in the college this morning and I have a new species of insect in my house, I think it may be a type of scorpion. I have this irrational belief that my mosquito net will protect me from everything so I don't worry about the creepy, crawley, slitheries at night. In reality it has not even done a decent job in protecting me from malaria so why I think it will protect me from everything else I don't know.

I returned to letters and cards and lovely packages from Jo, Jean and Judith. I've scoffed the chocolate, drunk the tea, read the articles, and enjoyed all the lovel pressents. I have been very spoiled by friends and family while I have been here.

The student intake that had been postponed until September has now been changed to next week. This is quite surprising since things usuallly take longer here and don't get brought forward. We have 96 students starting on Monday. I'm doing the psychology lectures which I hope to make a lot of fun as opposed to the dry facts that they have been fed before. It is the subject that most students fail but I hope to change that by making it a lot more practical so that they know how to apply it in their work.

One of my cockerels made an escape attempt this week. They must know that they are destined for the pot. I've asked a local to try to get me some layers and hope that it works out better this time. The garden is still producing, I have more corn coming up, the gem squash is looking good, the root veg is developing and I'm still harvesting the cape gooseberries. The herbs smell and taste superb. Harry has been overtly sexually active in the garden again. I've told her to keep away from the Tom next door but she continues to idolise him and his worms.

Its only 2 weeks until Kathy and Ali visit then its off to Zambia on a luxury safari and a trip to Victoria falls. I'm really excited about having my first visitors from home. I can taste the sundowners already. 6 weeks after their return my nephews are visiting, another Zambian trip and more time at the lake. 6 weeks after that Jane and Mary Jess are visiting when I hope to see more of Malawi. Until then its work but it should be fun with 96 new students.

Thanks for keeping in touch. Keep the comments coming.

Wednesday, 9 April 2008

Visiting The North

Our third year students have just graduated and the intake for the new first years has been delayed for 6 months so I'm using the time to do a professional exchange visit. I'm visiting the University in Mzuzu, the central hospital and the mental hospital and catching up with VSO friends. The university is the only place where they train students to degree level, a bit different from degree level in the UK, and where they train registered nurses. The drive up to the north was fabulous, the road goes through the Viphaya mountains and forests. It got much cooler the higher up I drove which was a pleasant change. The smell of the forest was superb.

The college graduation ceremony and dinner had to be endured. It was one of the most dull evenings that I've spent in Malawi. However some other people took advantage of the fact that most staff were at the function and took the opportunity to empty the hospital safe, steal the wages and break into a house and steal the TV and DVD. The phone lines that were stolen 4 months ago have still not been replaced but we hope to have the satellite Internet link up and running soon.

Last weekend we had a regional meeting at Mulangie in the very south of the country. It was a beautiful setting at the bottom of the highest mountain in Malawi. It had the added bonus of an ice cream shop on the way. This weekend I'm staying in the north and going to Livingstonia for the weekend. At the end of next week we have a peer group meeting on the Lake. I hope to do a bit more exploring at the beginning of the week.

The garden continues to flourish, I've more sweet corn, beetroot, carrots, tomatoes, cape gooseberries, onions and peppers coming up. The herbs are great and I'm also allowing a local lad to grow veg in the garden for his family. I keep threatening to eat my cockerels, especially at 5 in the morning, but I can't bring myself to do it. Harry is doing fine. I thought that she was pregnant but I think she must have aborted again, thankfully not on the door step this time. We have a VSO vet from Canada who is going to bring his kit to the house and operate on her. I've not had any more floods in the house. We are back to having lengthy power cuts most evening and I'm perfecting cooking on charcoal. I'm getting really excited about my first visitors arriving and our trip to Zambia.

I hope everyone at home is well. Keep the comments and letters coming.

Tuesday, 18 March 2008

Back to the Lake

Life has been surprisingly normal, or maybe I'm just getting used to running mud in place of water, which sometimes has the added bonus of worms in it. Just what you want in a shower. The mud acts as a really good exfoliant, I'm sure some people would pay a lot for mud showers. I could set them up as a side line when I get home. No more floods in the house or aborted kittens and no eggs from the cockerels but I can't bring myself to cook them, yet.

The college has been busy with more exams, the marking is nearly complete and we are about to finish for Easter. We have booked a house on the lake for the holiday. I have just found out that the Diocese has a house that we can use so we are giving it a try. I've been assured there are no hippos or crocodiles there. Just a house on the beach complete with house staff.

I've planned a trip to Mzuzu in the north to visit the health faculty in the university and the hospital. It will be interesting to see how different they are from St Luke's. The weekend before that we have a meeting at Mount Mulangi, which was postponed from earlier this month, then after that I have another meeting at the lake. We are still trying to book our trip to Zanzibar but flight are expensive just now and we have been advised to wait until the price comes down. We are considering going one way overland either by bus or train to see a bit more of the country but it will depend on how long the trip will take.

The college has had to delay the starting date for the new student intake by 6 months. This is to have the entry date in line with the government hospitals. That means we will be operating at half capacity for 6 months but at least it gives time for professional visits and developing the IT in the college. We still don't have phone lines. The phone company want the college to provide security for the lines which they can't do. We are just about to get a satellite link for internet access with the Scottish Executive grant so we should be online in the foreseeable future.

I hope everyone at home is well. Keep in touch, Carol

Tuesday, 4 March 2008

Fundamental Problem With Chickens

For weeks I've been cursing the cockerels that live behind my fence, they waken me every morning competing to see who is the loudest. My neighbour thought it was my hens making the noise, which I strenuously denied, and then realised that might be the reason why there were no eggs. When I checked out where the noise was coming from I realised it was my hens, or what I thought were hens! I don't think I will be getting many eggs but I should get a few good meals out of them. Local people are still trying to tell me I have some hens.

The rainy season is nearly over but not quite. 4 inches of rain fell the night before last, it was an amaizing storm. We have ventured to the lake for the last 2 weekends now that the roads are a bit better and we are planning another trip at easter. We are also looking into a trip to Zanzibar in July.

Work has been very busy with interviews for potential students and exams for existing students. I have had hours of entertainment marking papers. I probably wrote as much rubbish in my papers when I was a student. We have more exams coming up and I have been given the task of setting and marking the psychiatry papers.

My ballcock continues to give me problems with more flooding and water damage in the house. I'm almost sure the cat is pregnant again, I hope it works out this time. There has been no more signs of rodents in the house but the monitor lizard is still around at times eyeing up the chickens.

I can't believe that's 9 months I've been here only another 15 to go.

Wednesday, 13 February 2008

Ballcock Problems

I've had an eventful fortnight. The ballcock on my water tank failed and flooded my house. The ceiling in my hall is caving in and my wellies have come in really handy. My kitten was defiled by the cat next door and aborted 3 almost full term kittens. I'll probably have to adjust my perceptions of her sexual behaviour having seen her rolling about in the garden this morning inviting all the local toms to sample her services, maybe she is not so innocent. I did go to the so called vet only to find tht it was more of a butchers than a vet and the practitioner was not trained.

I was informed that there was a crocodile in the garden trying to get my chickens. The locals believe that there are land crocodiles. They think that they just don't make it to the water and spend their lives on land. In fact they are huge monitor lizards and have a liking for chickens. I have seen it in the garden and I've called it shoes. If the chickens don't start laying soon it can have the chickens and I'll call it shoes and handbag.

I've got malaria again third time lucky, hopefully its the last. The rainy season is coming to an end so there should be less mosquios around and less malaria. Debbie next door has had it 3 times as well. There is a lot of it in the area.

I suspect a rat has raided the cat food in my larder. The bags were ripped open and food eaten. If it wasn't a rat it was something quite large and I really don't want to know.

4 Christmas parcels have arrived this month. Thanks to Lesley, Jo, Jean and Elsie. Its been great having an extended Christmas. I still put the cards and decorations up when they arrive. Some of the parcels have taken nearly 3 months by airmail. My surface mail has still not arrived. We have quite a good system here of sending mail home with friends and getting people to bring things over for us. Its a lot quicker and safer.

I'm as busy as ever socially and now that the rains are lessening we are planning a trip to the lake at the end of the month. We have a VSO meeting at Mulangie mountain the first weekend in March and we hope to have another trip to the lake at Easter. Time continues to fly and my first visitors from home will be here before I know it. Jane and Mary Jess, who went down the Grand Canyon with me, have also booked flights and are vising in September. Its going to be a very busy year.

The students have ben sitting exams and we have been marking the papers. Its an education in itself. Some of the questions are as flawed as the answers. I have had to refuse to mark some of the papers because of the misinformed questions. Its a real concern for me but does not bother the tutors. You can tell by the questions and marking guides that there is no real understanding of mental illness. However it was the diabetes question that really upset me.

I hope everyone at home is well. Keep in touch.

Wednesday, 30 January 2008

Trip Home

Just returned from a whirlwind trip home. I had a week in London with John then a week at home. It was all a bit surreal. Apologies to those I did not manage to catch up with. I had malaria again before I left but had just about recovered by the time I got to London. We had a great time there. We went to Kennsington Palace, the Jewel Tower, King Tut's exhibition, the original operating theatre in St Thomas Street and lots more. We also went to the theatre and cinema.

It was great catching up with friends and family and planning trips with people who are coming out to visit. My biggest trauma when I got to London was forgetting my VISA pin number it cramped my style a bit. I was told that shopping is really difficult after returning from very poor countries and having so little choice and access to goods. I'm pleased to report that I had no difficulties in that respect my ability to shop and spend money all day has not diminished. I nearly dislocated my shoulders carrying back goodies to enjoy over the next few months.

The rainy season continues here. The rain is more persistent, it is still heavy but not as bad as before. It is more prolonged and instead of flash floods it is like living in a swamp. My roof is leaking and everything feels damp. We only have another couple of months of rain them 6 months of sunshine. The damn at the reservoir that we get our water from burst so despite all the rain we have been unable to get water at times. Maintenance are trying to get water from the river but we get so much silt and rubbish in the water pipes they block and burst. The water is so muddy and gritty at times you can't use it.

Harry, my cat, is doing well. She is very skinny compared to my cats at home. She is now eating the geckos that she kills then vomits. My chickens are very fat but still not laying. They will be for the hotpot soon if they don't come up with the goods. I'm looking forward to getting back into work next week. I'm in college this week working on ward objectives for the students. We still don't have phone lines in Malosa so we have to come into Zomba to use the Internet. My social calendar is filling up. I was out for dinner within an hour of returning. It was lovely to have company that evening. I would have been pretty miserable on my own after returning from home.

I hope everyone is well. Keep in touch Carol

Saturday, 5 January 2008

Happy New Year

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year.

Mozambique was all I hoped for and more. The Isle of Mozambique was beautiful, our Christmas meal was superb and we spent Christmas day on an uninhabited desert island called Goa, no we didn't go to India. After a few days on the island we went to Pemba a busy costal town where all the flights and dhows for the Quirimba archipeligo leave. We stayed there for 3 days then flew on a 6 seated plane, over the archipeligo, to the island of Ibo which is in the Quirimba national park. We stayed in a luxury lodge where we were utterly spoilt and spent a fortune. The pilot refused to pay the landing fees on the return trip because there were too many bushes growing on the grass runway. We went snorkling on a wreck and off a sand bank in the ocean and had a cultural and historical tour of the island. We returned to Mozambique Island for new year and went to a party night then had a relaxing new years day. The journed back by road was beautiful. We took a different route to see other parts of the country. Some of the buildings damaged in the war are still standing in ruins, burnt out and marked with bullet holes and shells. The landmine teams were working to clear mines. When we stopped for a break we could not walk far off the road because of the mines. It was a fantastic trip made all the better by an abundance of excellent seafood.

On my return home there was no power. It returned for 3 hours then a tree fell on the power lines and we have been without power since then. The phone lines have not been replaced. so its much as I'm used to here. We are well into the rainy season. Within 10 minutes of the rain starting the garden is like a pond and the paths and roads turn into rivers. My wellies have been well used.

Its back to work next week. I'll be based at t Luke's for a while. Thanks for keeping in touch and thanks for all the kind Christmas parcels and cards.